2005年09月16日

The Range of Light

"Then it seemed to me the Sierra should be called, not the Nevada or Snowy Range, but the Range of Light." John Muir

Sierra Nevada」[英訳:The Snowy (Mountain) Range]という単語は、1776年、サンフランシスコ湾付近から、その山々を遠望したスペインの伝道師Pedro Fontによって、初めて地図に記されました。1890年、MuirはCentury誌に投稿した記事「The Treasures of The Yosemite」(8月号)の中で、自分にとっては「Sierra Navada」は「Snowy Range」ではなく「The Range of Light」と呼ぶべきだと書きました:Then it seemed to me the Sierra should be called, not the Nevada or Snowy Range, but the Range of Light[1]。 「The Range of Light」がMuirによる造語なのかどうかは定かではありませんが、このフレーズは、その後のMuirの著書「The Mountains of California」(1894年)、および「The Yosemite」(1912年)でも使われています[2][3]。本人によれば、「The Range of Light」という表現は、初めてヨセミテを訪れた1868年に、San Joseの南東Pacheco Pass(CA152号上)からSierra Nevadaを望んだときに思いついたと説明しています[註]。また1911年に出版された「My First Summer in the Sierra」[4]では、「The Range of Light」を使い、結びとしています:Here ends my forever memorable first High Sierra excursion. I have crossed the Range of Light, surely the brightest and best of all the Load has built; and rejoicing in its glory, I gladly, gratefully, hopefully pray I may see it again. 「The Range of Light」はもはや「Sierra Nevada」の代名詞です。ハイシエラで時を過ごすことにより、誰もが「The Range of Light」の表現のもつ奥深さを感じ取れることでしょう。

[1] The Tresures of The Yosemite(1890): One shining morning, at the head of the Pacheco Pass, a landscape was displayed that after all my wanderings still appears as the most divinely beautiful and sublime I have ever beheld. There at my feet lay the great central plain of California, level as a lake thirty or forty miles wide, four hundred long, one rich furred bed of golden Compositae. And along the eastern shore of this lake of gold rose the mighty Sierra, miles in height, in massive, tranquil grandeur, so gloriously colored and so radiant that it seemed not clothed with light, but wholly composed of it, like the wall of some celestial city. Along the top, and extending a good way down, was a rich pearl-gray belt of snow; then a belt of blue and dark purple, marking the extension of the forests; and stretching along the base of the range a broad belt of rose-purple, where lay the miners’ gold and the open foothill gardens—all the colors smoothly blending, making a wall of light clear as crystal and ineffably fine, yet firm as adamant. Then it seemed to me the Sierra should be called, not the Nevada or Snowy Range, but the Range of Light. And after ten years in the midst of it, rejoicing and wondering, seeing the glorious floods of light that fill it,—the sunbursts of morning among the mountain-peaks, the broad noonday radiance on the crystal rocks, the flush of the alpenglow, and the thousand dashing waterfalls with their marvelous abundance of irised spray,—it still seems to me a range of light. But no terrestrial beauty may endure forever. The glory of wildness has already departed from the great central plain. Its bloom is shed, and so in part is the bloom of the mountains. In Yosemite, even under the protection of the Government, all that is perishable is vanishing apace.

[2] The Mountains of California(1894): When I first enjoyed this superb view, one glowing April day, from the summit of the Pacheco Pass, the Central Valley, but little trampled or plowed as yet, was one furred, rich sheet of golden compositae, and the luminous wall of the mountains shone in all its glory. Then it seemed to me the Sierra should be called not the Nevada, or Snowy Range, but the Range of Light. And after ten years spent in the heart of it, rejoicing and wondering, bathing in its glorious floods of light, seeing the sunbursts of morning among the icy peaks, the noonday radiance on the trees and rocks and snow, the flush of the alpenglow, and a thousand dashing waterfalls with their marvelous abundance of irised spray, it still seems to me above all others the Range of Light, the most divinely beautiful of all the mountain-chains I have ever seen.

[3] The Yosemite(1912): Looking eastward from the summit of the Pacheco Pass one shining morning, a landscape was displayed that after all my wanderings still appears as the most beautiful I have ever beheld. At my feet lay the Great Central Valley of California, level and flowery, like a lake of pure sunshine, forty or fifty miles wide, five hundred miles long, one rich furred garden of yellow Compositoe. And from the eastern boundary of this vast golden flower-bed rose the mighty Sierra, miles in height, and so gloriously colored and so radiant, it seemed not clothed with light, but wholly composed of it, like the wall of some celestial city. Along the top and extending a good way down, was a rich pearl-gray belt of snow; below it a belt of blue and lark purple, marking the extension of the forests; and stretching long the base of the range a broad belt of rose-purple; all these colors, from the blue sky to the yellow valley smoothly blending as they do in a rainbow, making a wall of light ineffably fine. Then it seemed to me that the Sierra should be called, not the Nevada or Snowy Range, but the Range of Light. And after ten years of wandering and wondering in the heart of it, rejoicing in its glorious floods of light, the white beams of the morning streaming through the passes, the noonday radiance on the crystal rocks, the flush of the alpenglow, and the irised spray of countless waterfalls, it still seems above all others the Range of Light.

[註] Muirの最初のヨセミテ旅行(1868年)の記録は、Bade編のMuirの手紙集のVI章に引用されています。それにはPacheco Passからの記述はあるものの、「The Range of Light」という表現は使われていません。したがって、実際には文を書く都合上、「The Range of Light」を1868年に思いついた風に書いたと考えるのが妥当だと思われます。

[参考] 日本アルプスの登山黎明期に名をはせた小島鳥水(California在住11年)は、著作「高山の雪」(明治44年)のなかで、わずかながらMuirの「The Range of Light」について触れ、『米人ジョン・ミュ−アJohn Muirは、かってヨセミテ渓谷Yosemite Valleyの記を草して、このシエラ山はまったく光より成れる観があるといって、シエラをば「雪の峰と呼んではいけない、光の峰と名づけたほうがいい」と言ったが…』と書いています(岩波文庫、山岳紀行文集「日本アルプス」;小島鳥水著・近藤信行編;1995年第7刷;342ページより)。

投稿者 toshi : 2005年09月16日 00:01